Beehive frame sizes

Beehive frames
Please provide any missing sizes/info for the list by adding them to the comment section.

Description / prey	A	B	C	D	E
Alberti Sheets Stock	420	270
Alsace-Lorraine-degree	240	320
Worksheets loot the Empire division beekeeper	223	370
Baden completely (Vereinsmaß)	237	210
Austria. Wide honeycomb	426	225
Baden half	240	420
Bayrisch.Hoffm.kl.
Berlepsch
Berchdesgardener measure	235	370
Bockzonadibeute (Hungarian)	420	360
Braun Sches measure
British S. National (Honey)	356	140			432
British Standard (14x12)	356	304			432
British Standard National Deep	356	215			432
Bürki-box	270	230
Dadant brood chamber	435	300
Dadant Honey Space	435	160
Dadant leaf frame	435	300
Dadant mod	448	285
Dadant Journal	420	270
Dadant Type American	460	270
DAHT wide honeycomb	347	225
DAHT high honeycomb	223	360
Danish trough booty	310	260
German Plain	370	223
German standard 1 1 / 2	370	311
French Congress of prey	362	362
French Zentralvereinsmaß	320	430
Freudenstein	338	200
Gerstung wide	410	260	400	250
Gerstung High	260	410	250	400
Helvetia box (brood chamber)	360	300	344	270
Helvetia Box (Honey Room)	360	150
Hoffmann small	370	260
Hoffmann large
Italian Vereinsmaß	426	261
Yugoslav ???	400	300
Kuntsch wide
Kuntsch High	330	250
Langstroth	448	232
Langstroth flat	448	159
Langstroth Shallow British	448	137
Langstroth Shallow New Zealand	448	175
Lüfteneggermaß	420	220
Champion Stock Schulz	350	240
Pike-perch	420	220
Rheinische ideal prey (Schneider)	250	420
Spühlerkasten breeding room	385	335	370	310
Spühlerkasten honey space	385	170	370	150
Swabian stock prey (Alsace)	272	362
Schweiermaß new	340	260
Schweiermaß old	272	277
Smith (short lug)	356	215
Swiss box	286	354	270	346
Swiss high honeycomb	270	340
Swiss Stock (breeding area)	288	361
Swiss Stock (Honey Room)	288	177
Schleswig Holstein walking booty	310	260
Sträuslis-frame Dadant-Alberti	435	300
Tartan (Czech & Slovak)	420	275
UK Commercial (Deep)	404	254
UK Commercial (Honey)	356	140
Vienna club stand	250	420
WBC
Würtenberger - New	272	277
Würtenberger Alt	272	220

Entrance or boadman style feeders

The size and location of your apiary, condition of your hive(s) and how neat you are have much to do with success or failure with these boardman style feeders. I have added some photos of various types avialable and there are plans in the DIY section also. There are also other types of feeders available.

Front entrance feeders have their place. They are great for nucs and new hives.  On the good side, they are inexpensive and you don't need your bee suit to change them.  It is the easiest feeder to use, quickest to deploy, easiest to check, can use recycle containers, comes in various sizes and easy to remove when not wanted.  With a little work they can be adapted to variuos hive designs such as a top bar hive (the yellow one pictured holds 1/2 gallon).

One plus for entrance feeders is that you don't have bees drowning all the time.  Inside frame feeders always have dead bees and you have to manipulate the hive to fill/clean them.  Manipulations are a part of almost every other feeder design. A bottom feeder being the exception.

Many times we hear about robber bees.  These are bees from another hive that plan to take one hives food stores for themselves and their hive.  They could be your bees.  Various "robber screens" can be found in the DIY section or you can buy them.

Here's my list on operating an entrance feeder.

1. Make sure all your bees are healthy, the best defense against robbing.
2. Do not use them for winter feeding.  The bees will not come down to them.
3. Bees should have access to water, nectar, pollen.  Plenty of water.
4. Provide some free fly zone. Make sure your hives entrances do not point at one another. 
5. When filling entrance feeders, do it away from the hive and watch those drips.  Spilled syrup attracts ants and robber bees.
6. If the feeder gets mold or is dirty, wash it out.
7. Place the feeder to one side of the entrance and place a small block about 2" long on the other side of the feeder.  This gives some buffer on the open side.
8. Place and refill in late afternoon or evening only.  Bees are less active then and less likely to rob.  If all hives are starving, feed ONLY AT NIGHT.
9. If you have stronger hives, feed them one day before the weaker.
10. Check feeders often.  A hungry hive can empty a quart feeder in a few hours.
11. Use high volume feeders after the nectar flow.
12. Overfeeding in spring could induce early swarming or your frames becoming honey bound from the syrup.  See the tip below.

TIPS:  

• To make the syrup last all day, to ramp up brood rearing or to reduce the chance of robbing simply reduce the number of access holes in the lid.  Just a few (2-4) will do the trick.  Remember you are supplementing not providing a buffet. 
• Using 2:1 (2 parts water and  1 part sugar) will reduce clogging and be more like nectar.
• Use them to deliver plain water, especially during high heat or dry periods.

I

Thymol or Apiguard Varroa Recipe

Thymol treatment recipe

Ingredients

• 3.5 Oz. Thymol crystals (handle with care - avoid skin contact)
• 7 Oz. Crisco or other solid pure vegetable fat (no additives, preservatives or emulsifiers)
• 24.7 Oz. Superfine or Regular Sugar (Not confectioners)

(sufficient for about 12 colonies)

Instructions

Melt the Crisco in a saucepan and allow it to cool until warm to the touch. Put the sugar into a plastic container and thoroughly mix in the Thymol crystals until all lumps are broken down. Add the sugar/Thymol mixture to the melted Crisco and mix thoroughly until the mixture is the consistency of a paste. If well sealed the mixture may be stored in the bottom of a refrigerator for up to 12 months.

Usage

On a piece of grease-proof paper about 2" square spread about a teaspoon of the mixture so that it is about 1/4" thick and place on top of the brood frames. You can also use any lid with a lip from a food storage container as a tray.  The inner cover  should allow a bee space above the paste. All ventilation should be closed except a 3/8" wide entrance. Refresh the mixture very two weeks until the drop falls below 2-3 mites per week.

The ambient temperature needs to be above about 59°F unless the hive is insulated. Expanded polystyrene works well (about 3/4" thick) and can be left on all winter.

Note: do not apply the Thymol treatement when supers are still on or at least during main nectar flow. It is also advisable to remove excess winter stores in the spring before the bees transfer it into the supers.

Here is another recipe also.