A depository of over 300 different beehive designs with photos, 93+ plans for beekeeping equipment and bee hives, beekeeping information and links from around the world. Submissions of photos and related information welcome. To post a comment click on the Beehive title, component title or the comment icon. Help us grow by linking to us, telling others, becoming a follower or a guest author.
Pages
▼
January 16, 2009
Beekeeping Questions and Answers
As your question related to Beekeeping and equipment or parts here. Use the comment section below to ask your question. Click HERE to go to DIY plans.
Historically in North America there were two large brood frame designs, the Dadant and the Langstroth Jumbo. There is no "Dadant Jumbo."
The standard Dadant brood frame (like the one used by Br. Adam) has the dimensions 17 5/8 * 11 1/4 inches. There are 11 of these in the Modified Dadant hive, and 12 in the Buckfast Dadant hive. The frames are spaced wider than Langstroth, on 1 1/2" centers (an important difference).
The Langstroth brood frame is 17 5/8 * 9 1/8 in. Normally used in an 8 or 10 frame configuration. (One of the reasons why the 10 fr. hive became popular is because the 8-fr. had a tendency to tip over.) Frame spacing is 1 3/8" center to center.
The Langstroth Jumbo brood frame is deeper, at 11 1/4", making it similar to the Dadant brood frame, but it retains the narrower spacing.
In Britain, many users of National Hives have gone to a 3 1/2 inch-deeper version of the British Standard brood frame, at 14 x 12 in. to allow for a larger continuous brood comb area. This would be analogous to the Jumbo Langstroth frame.
Buck: I read a thing published by MAAREC that is meant as a guide for suburban beekeepers, that says, "bees in the shade tend to be more aggressive." Can you speak to whether there is any validity to that statement?
That is what has been said many times for many years. I am not 100% sure of it. I think a lot of the issue is related to the beekeeper skills, the general health of the hive and the climate where the hives are located.
Let me pose this to you. If you take a pill say for a headache, do you expect the headache to vanish as soon as the pill hits your stomach? No, of course not. The pill must first be dissolved and then absorbed by the blood and then delivered to the head.
Then why does the average beekeeper think that the act of blowing smoke at a hive for a couple of seconds affords enough time for a bee(s) to run to a cell of honey, fill their belly and become un-alarmed from the smoke so they’re not "aggressive"? Now what happens if there is no or little honey to eat in the first place or if none of the honey is uncapped?
I've seen many pictures that have hives in a least partial shade and seen photos of hives in total sun. I don't think in the grand scheme of things that it is a big deal to the bees. Small Hive Beetles on the other hand prefer shade and a cooler hive seems to extend the breeding cycle of the Varrora Mite as the bees can take slightly longer to develop.
So, to answer your question, I would say it does not necessarily make them aggressive. Temperature control is the real issue. If your area is hot as hell, you need shade of some type. If is mild to cold you do not need it. Sometimes it’s just aggressive bees and you have to requeen to correct this. Various studies suggest hives in shade (maybe not partial shade) may be greater impacted by other pests. But then that opens a discussion on IPM's. BW
Greetings, I was told that even though I have plenty of dandelions blooming on my property that because of the current cold weather, somewhere around high forties to low fifties, that there wouldn't bee any nectar in the flowers for the bees to drink. The example I was given was as if I were to go fishing in a swimming pool. I could try but there just won't be any fish. My question to you is if this is true. Does it have to be a certain temperature before the flowers produce nectar or pollen for the bees to eat? Thanks. Marya
Yes, temperature plays a role, but it is more in the opening and closing of the bloom at this time of year. Dandelions close at night and other times of the day depending on the temperature. Pollen and nectar are present when the bloom is showing. Some bees collect nectar and others collect pollen. The activity you see is based on the needs of the hive. During spring pollen is what the bees are looking for as they use this in feeding the new bees being reared for this year. Later you will see more nectar gathers. If the blooms are open, pollen and nectar are present, but the amount will depend on overall conditions including rain and condition/size of the plant. If you would like to help the bees, check the web for bee friendly plants. Some flowers while pretty have no value to bees.
I would like to know about front entrance feeders and their drawbacks. It appears that it could encourage 'robbing' by the hive that does not have a front entrance feeder? Is there a superior method for feeding the hives? Thanks. Beekeeper in Issaquah, WA
Your great question bears more detail than I can do here and others may like to read more. I've made a full post on these feeders under the title Entrance Feeders (see index) for more information and to answer fully your question.
Can you explain some about Dadant hives verses Langstroth hives?
ReplyDeleteHistorically in North America there were two large brood frame designs, the Dadant and the Langstroth Jumbo. There is no "Dadant Jumbo."
ReplyDeleteThe standard Dadant brood frame (like the one used by Br. Adam) has the dimensions 17 5/8 * 11 1/4 inches. There are 11 of these in the Modified Dadant hive, and 12 in the Buckfast Dadant hive. The frames are spaced wider than Langstroth, on 1 1/2" centers (an important difference).
The Langstroth brood frame is 17 5/8 * 9 1/8 in. Normally used in an 8 or 10 frame configuration. (One of the reasons why the 10 fr. hive became popular is because the 8-fr. had a tendency to tip over.) Frame spacing is 1 3/8" center to center.
The Langstroth Jumbo brood frame is deeper, at 11 1/4", making it similar to the Dadant brood frame, but it retains the narrower spacing.
In Britain, many users of National Hives have gone to a 3 1/2 inch-deeper version of the British Standard brood frame, at 14 x 12 in. to allow for a larger continuous brood comb area. This would be analogous to the Jumbo Langstroth frame.
Buck: I read a thing published by MAAREC that is meant as a guide for
ReplyDeletesuburban beekeepers, that says, "bees in the shade tend to be more
aggressive." Can you speak to whether there is any validity to that statement?
Visitor:
ReplyDeleteThat is what has been said many times for many years. I am not 100% sure of it. I think a lot of the issue is related to the beekeeper skills, the general health of the hive and the climate where the hives are located.
Let me pose this to you. If you take a pill say for a headache, do you expect the headache to vanish as soon as the pill hits your stomach? No, of course not. The pill must first be dissolved and then absorbed by the blood and then delivered to the head.
Then why does the average beekeeper think that the act of blowing smoke at a hive for a couple of seconds affords enough time for a bee(s) to run to a cell of honey, fill their belly and become un-alarmed from the smoke so they’re not "aggressive"? Now what happens if there is no or little honey to eat in the first place or if none of the honey is uncapped?
I've seen many pictures that have hives in a least partial shade and seen photos of hives in total sun. I don't think in the grand scheme of things that it is a big deal to the bees. Small Hive Beetles on the other hand prefer shade and a cooler hive seems to extend the breeding cycle of the Varrora Mite as the bees can take slightly longer to develop.
So, to answer your question, I would say it does not necessarily make them aggressive. Temperature control is the real issue. If your area is hot as hell, you need shade of some type. If is mild to cold you do not need it. Sometimes it’s just aggressive bees and you have to requeen to correct this. Various studies suggest hives in shade (maybe not partial shade) may be greater impacted by other pests. But then that opens a discussion on IPM's. BW
Greetings,
ReplyDeleteI was told that even though I have plenty of dandelions blooming on my property that because of the current cold weather, somewhere around high forties to low fifties, that there wouldn't bee any nectar in the flowers for the bees to drink. The example I was given was as if I were to go fishing in a swimming pool. I could try but there just won't be any fish. My question to you is if this is true. Does it have to be a certain temperature before the flowers produce nectar or pollen for the bees to eat? Thanks.
Marya
Yes, temperature plays a role, but it is more in the opening and closing of the bloom at this time of year. Dandelions close at night and other times of the day depending on the temperature. Pollen and nectar are present when the bloom is showing. Some bees collect nectar and others collect pollen. The activity you see is based on the needs of the hive. During spring pollen is what the bees are looking for as they use this in feeding the new bees being reared for this year. Later you will see more nectar gathers. If the blooms are open, pollen and nectar are present, but the amount will depend on overall conditions including rain and condition/size of the plant. If you would like to help the bees, check the web for bee friendly plants. Some flowers while pretty have no value to bees.
ReplyDeletewelche Luftfeuchtigkeit muss in einen Brutkasten fuer Bienen sein?
ReplyDeleteI would like to know about front entrance feeders and their drawbacks. It appears that it could encourage 'robbing' by the hive that does not have a front entrance feeder? Is there a superior method for feeding the hives?
ReplyDeleteThanks. Beekeeper in Issaquah, WA
Your great question bears more detail than I can do here and others may like to read more. I've made a full post on these feeders under the title Entrance Feeders (see index) for more information and to answer fully your question.
ReplyDeleteIf two bee hives are close and one dies will the bees in the live hive get the honey from the dead hive?
ReplyDeleteHow do you go about transferring a new nuc from a standard size frame to a deep brood frame?
ReplyDelete