|High/Low Hive stand using an old ladder|
|Twin 4x4 rails|
In the small photo you can see that this in action. One strong breeze or a simple jar and these hives are on the ground, imagine adding a top feeder to them or adding or removing supers. If you have tall hives, a safety strap wrapping your hive is wise. I have seen stands that were so heavy that they pushed the supports into the ground or became crooked.
Your reason for raising the hive off the ground is where to start your plan. Here is a few tips:
- 0 to 4 inches - a regular hive base works well. Beware ants and mice in the enclosed area under the hive. Try filing it with small gravel but not touching the bottom board. Do not use foam, rags or straw as filler.
- 4 to 8 inches - Simple blocks on firm soil or other foundations works fine. There should be one block at each corner using two shelf rails. Add center blocks every 2 feet to prevent bowing. At this height range, weed control is easier and most flooding is avoided.
- 8 to 16 inches - Here is where you can be very creative. If you use any type of blocks or bricks, cement them together. If you use posts, make sure them have a base (big rock, stone or concrete) under them in the hole so they can not be pushed down over time. Steel posts can also be used. Stringers can be attached between two trees to make a shelf. Add supports every 2 feet.
- 16 plus - Now you need some means to raise your self also. Ladders and hives do not mix. A simple walking/service platform works or make your shelf large enough for you to stand on also. Add an area larger enough to set empty supers on. Larger posts should be used. Add supports every 2 feet.
|Beehive On Blocks|
|With ant protection|
|Hives w/ant protection|
|Hives above, chickens below|
|New plastic style|